DIY King Farmhouse Headboard.


Hey there friends!

After receiving many question’s and seeing our bedroom on Pintrest repined over 140,000 times! I decided it might be time to let you all in on my secret to making this headboard on the cheap! I mean, like… less than $50.00 Dollar’s in wood, cheap! You just can’t beat it!

For So many years I neglected our bedroom! And I only put my time, money and energy into my living room… Boy, was I was SO WRONG! Seriously! Everyone deserves to go to bed feeling comfortable and at peace. One morning I woke up and said “I am so sick of this freakin’ ugly room!” Mixed match sheets and all! So I got to work dreaming up plans for big changes on a micro budget!

One of my favorite things about our headboard is how diverse it is! You can go Rustic, Farmhouse, Shabby chic, Boho, Eclectic, or even Modern. The choice is yours what will you pick?

Are you ready?


HERE IS WHAT YOU’LL NEED: (Purchased mine at Home Depot)

  • 4 2×4’s (white wood)
  • 8 1×6 Fence post’s (pine dog ear)
  • Kreg Jig
  • Drill
  • Hand sander
  • 60, 80 and 220 grit sand paper
  • 1 1/4 screws
  • Wood glue
  • Stains or paint of choice
  • Finishing wax
  • nail gun and 1 1/4 nails (Optional)
  • 2 inch coarse drywall screw

Fence post wood for our inside paneling pieces.


2X4 White wood for the frame.


Before Starting:

For best results, pick the best wood possible at your local lumberyard or hardware store! check for the smoothest and cleanest pieces you can get your hands on.


Please use a good wood glue for each attaching piece during the build. Also, make sure to wipe off excess glue for stained projects. Because dried glue will not take stain! I repeat… dried glue will not take stain!


king size designed at 76″ wide and 69″ high

cut measurement list:

  • 8 1×6 cut at 74″ boards (inside panels)
  • 2 2×4 cut at 69″ mitered at 45 degrees (for the legs)
  • 1 2×4 cut at 69 1/2″ (for the bottom)
  • 1 2×4 cut at 76″ mitered at 45 degrees (for the top)

  1. You will need to cut all eight of your 1×6’s inside panel boards (fence boards) to 74 inches in length then set them aside.
  2. Continue by grabbing two of your 2×4’s and cut one side of each of them to 69 inches in length at a 45 degree angle. this will be for the side’s of the bed frame.
  3. Now take one of the remaining boards and cut both sides at a 45 degree angle. making it 76 inches in length. this is for the top of the frame.
  4. Your final cut will be your one 2×4 left. Making straight cuts… Cut this piece to 69 1/2 inches. This is for the bottom of the frame.


After making all your cut’s, gather all boards and sand them babies down! I personally used a very fine grit (220) for just the edges of my 2×4’s because I didn’t want the frame to grab much of the stain. However, I did used my hand sander with a heavy grit paper (80 and 60 grit) for the fence boards in order to remove the roughness.

you can always run them through a plainer as well!



You can Stain or paint with what ever it may be, that you think suits your project or lifestyle best… I chose to go with a nice mix of stains. I started by staining all my boards with Early American by Minwax. This is mainly to make sure the sides of the boards are covered once the inside panels begin to breathe and separate.

Don’t worry about the way the stain looks too much at this point. Because you will want to add to the look once the build is complete.


  1. Using your 69 inch mitered boards and kreg jig, you will need to make two angled pocket holes on the left and right to attach the two side (leg pieces) to the top piece.
  2. Using your 76 inch top piece you will need to make two holes on each side of this piece as well. Off setting the holes you made on the side boards.
  3. Using wood glue and drywall screws you will need to pop them in the holes you made. Screwing them tightly and allowing the glue to cure.
  4.  Measuring roughly 44 inches from the top Drill four pocket holes in the 69 1/2 inch bottom board, two on each side. Use the drywall screws to tighten into place.
  5. Flipping the frame over (back side up) start laying down your 1×6 fence boards.
  6. Once you lay them down in an even pattern… Start with the board closest to the middle and screw each side into frame using 1 1/4 screws or you can use 1 1/4 nails for a nail gun. repeat on each board going upwards and downwards.



After all your pieces are in place and the build is complete. Go ahead and touch up any imperfection on the frame with your main Early American stain color. I  also wanted the headboard to look worn so I found some old chain and a hammer in our garage and gave the boards a few whack’s for a slight aged effect.

Once that was done I took a paint brush with a little Dark Walnut and Special Walnut stain and gave it a few light strokes in random areas on the inside of the frame. If it does not come out exactly how you want… don’t fear just sand the area again and add more stain variations.

If you do want a painted headboard instead… I would omit the staining steps and just use your favorite chalk paint and a wax or polyurethane.


The picture below is a closer look at the tone variation in the wood with slight distressing.


Step 6: SEAL!

YAY! our final step! waxing the wood once complete is so important! Not only does it help seal and protect the wood… It also gives the stain a beautiful bright finish! Howard Feed-N-Wax is my absolute favorite because it not too heavy, it smells great and is so easy to work with. I just squirt some on a lint free rag and rub directly all over the wood. Once you have done all of that… I would let the headboard sit for 24-48 hours giving it time to dry before using your  favorite bedding with it.


Here are a few more pictures of our completed headboard’s…


Queen size: 60×69.5

Full size: 54×69.5

Twin size: 38×69.5

Thanks for stopping by and I hope you have a fun time building!

Until next project!



19 thoughts on “DIY King Farmhouse Headboard.

      1. It’s slow going since I don’t own a saw. I have almost all the trim pieces cut and need to nail/glue them on. Hopefully this weekend. Then I need to figure out how to paint it. Did you post a tutorial on that??


  1. Hi Natalie! I made my headboard after seeing yours months ago, wish I would have waited a little longer because having this post for reference would have made it so much easier.. I just winged it 😂 Anyways, my question is, how did you mount your headboard? Is it mounted to the wall or the bed frame? We have ours mounted to the bed frame but every time we sit on the bed or accidentally lean against the headboard it bangs agaist the wall.. not ideal. Any suggestions? Thanks!!



    1. Hi Peyton! Awesome! So glad you asked! I actually have ours mounted to the wall. Although I have gone several months with it free standing and never had a problem. But… I have had this question before and I recommend a pool noodle sliced down the middle and added to the backing. It will serve as a nice buffer between the wood and the wall! ❤


  2. Help!!! Followed Natalie’s directions exactly. Headboard looks incredible and feels completely dry but stain is coming off on my bed linens. The stain was completely dry before I used the Howard’s Feed n Wax. The practice boards I used to get the stain color just right, do not give off stain but I also didn’t apply the Feed n Wax to the practice boards. My guess is that the Feed n Wax is pulling the stain pigment out of the boards. I have wiped and wiped with clean lint free cloths and it continues in the same amount. Anyone else having this problem and if so what can I do about it. Thanks.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I would lightly sand it with a fine grit sand paper. Re-apply stain and make sure it’s totally dry before moving on to poly. When you are ready for your poly… Apply that with a foam brush in 1-2 thin layers. Wait till it’s completely dry test with an old rag to see if it comes of clean (which it should) then go ahead and move it back. ❤️


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